Arris Surfboard S34 DOCSIS 3.1 Multi-Gig Cable Modem |...

Most Helpful Review

"I used to have Hitron CODA56 and it used to get hot. I think it got hot to the point where it started dropping connections (known issue), so it made me look for a replacement. CODA56 is using Intel Puma 7 chipset (and Puma 6 was notorious for dropping connections, so maybe that's a problem, and not the heat), whereas Arris S34 is using Broadcom chipset (which usually is better regarded).Arris S3$ works okay, I definitely get way higher upload speeds (compared to SB8200), but it's same as CODA56. As others have noted - Arris S34 also gets pretty hot. Not only at the top, but even the coaxial cable connector itself, outside of the modem, gets pretty hot. I think this is a problem of all new cable modems (based on what I can observe). So, to not gamble again, I decided to just cut out a hole at the top and slap 35mm cooler fan there. It is a pretty good location, actually, as internally it has metal plates (radiators?!) on both sides of the PCB, so the fan blows on both of them, and at the bottom there are two small vent holes, so air goes through. 35mm fan does not move much air, though, but hopefully it will be better than nothing. In their installation instructions they actually tell you to not place anything around the modem and give it some room. I'm not sure how you are supposed to do that, given that in all modern homes, builders terminate home run in a tiny On-Q box or something similar. I don't know why they just don't add proper radiator and cooling fan in there from the factory. At this price they should be able to.For somebody who will decide to endeavor the same journey - there are two screws under rubber feat at the bottom of the modem. Then there are two clips on one side of the modem - you will see one side will come loose once screws are removed, while the other one will still sit tight - you just need to pull it hard. PCB is mounted to the bottom part of the modem housing and you don't have to remove it. I removed the top cover plate (that has vent holes), which is held by a dozen clips - this made it easier to remove the fins and make the hole for the fan. 35mm was a very tight fit in there, so I had to file the hole as wide as possibly can without removing any of the clips. I terminated fan power cable with screw-terminal barrel plug connector and also got a Y-split cable, so I could power it from the modem's power supply. Be aware that modem's power supply is 5.5x2.5 (not a standard 5.5x2.1), so look for that.So far - so good, time will tell how it holds up to the heat that it generates."